After a month of training.... - Hungarian Vizsla Forums
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  • 2 Post By MikoMN
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
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After a month of training....

Well this is a hunt on chukkar with Miko after a month of boot camp where they taught him whistle commands, and introduced him to the e-collar.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3vvgf67nlt...5Trim.mp4?dl=0


Keep in mind he is 10 months old. Still a puppy. I am aware of that I shouldn't expect perfection, and I don't. I am actually thrilled with what I see from him so far. He is a BIG runner, and just getting him to come back is a win for us at this point.

For those of you out there who are way more experienced with this than me.....What is next? What do I do to continue help him to get it tighter. As you can see in the video two tweets meant, "stop going that direction and change it up" but did not necessarily demand a heel. 5 tweets means "come to heel"

With the heel, he will always come close, but only actually to heel 75% of the time, and that is if you remind him when he gets close.

His point isn't picture perfect, but he gets the message across, and he only holds it for about 7 seconds. Will increased time of hold come with age, or do I need to be doing something to help him?

As always, thanks.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 11:05 AM
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He's looking good.
Coming from a retriever background, I keep it simple. One toot on the whistle/look to me for direction.
Multiple toots is come to me.
Let him have fun on birds, and encourage the big run by not trying to handle him to much in the bird field.
Just on normal fun runs start working with him on direction. Toot the whistle, when he looks your direction put your arm all the way out (shoulder hight) in the direction you want him to go. Then start walking that direction. You would be surprised just how quickly they start to understand it.
This also helps with blind retrieves later, when they didn't see the bird fall.
I also work on whoa away from birds. It's just having the dog stand still when I pull up on the lead. You slowly increase the time, and how far you can walk away from them. You can have a release word, or a tap on the dog for them to start moving again. I use the same word, and tap when I release the from coming to me or walking at heel.
Give him more bird exposure, and then start start bringing the yard work, and the bird work together.
Keep in mind there is no scolding a young dog in the bird field. Praise for what's done correctly, and bite your tongue if things go wrong. Dogs learn by their mistakes, so plan on a few happening.
Keep in mind I'm not a professional trainer, and if you run into a stumbling block, go review the problem with someone that is.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 12:51 PM
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He's doing great for his age. He's happy, he's bold, he's birdy and he's picking up and carrying birds shot over him. It looks like the training is going very well.

As far as the point goes, it was a bit close and he was flagging with excitement, which I wouldn't worry about too much at this point but if you want to go on to competition it could be an area that may (or equally may not) end up needing some work. Just something to keep an eye on as training progresses. To extend the point there are several ways to go about it. My second choice - the first being wild birds (if the dog is good with mechanical launchers) is to do what I call "popping birds. When the dog starts to road in on scent, the bird flies (and does NOT get shot). This simulates wild bird contact and gets the dog to start standing off, generally higher head as it's scent on wind and as the dog is a bit further off it naturally starts to stand longer as it's not as close and thinking it's almost close enough and can catch the bird. This is a dog of about the same age and a clip of what I mean.
She hasn't had any formal whoa training of any kind.

This doesn't work with all dogs, but it works with a good majority of them, and keeps us out of the picture a lot so it's between the dog and the bird.

Good luck - looking good!
Best,
Ken
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Knowledge and tools all help in training your dog, but have no worth whatsoever if one does not get up and actually go train.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-02-2017, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks TR and Ken. My understanding is:
1. Let him have birds. As many as I can afford.....
2. Maybe start whoa in yard, maybe look into launcher, and maybe combine the two at some point. (Ken, do you have a launcher recommendation? I have a sport dog collar)
3. Let him make mistakes without scolding. (I try to avoid this 95% of the time in all training)
4. Start giving direction in yard with arm on "look at me" whistle.

If I missed something, or misunderstood, please let me know.

Also, Ken, what is the best way to contact you about getting him to you for training at some point?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-02-2017, 02:21 PM
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I do the look to me for direction in big Bird less fields, on fun runs. Where we are just out to let the dogs stretch their legs.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-03-2017, 11:33 AM
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Hi Miko,
I'm limited by rules with how much I can share product recommendations, etc on the forum.
Best contact - info @ gundogtrainer.com or call the number on the site. I can be more open in a private discussion.

Best,
Ken

Knowledge and tools all help in training your dog, but have no worth whatsoever if one does not get up and actually go train.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-03-2017, 02:08 PM
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Ken
If a members asks you for a recommendation on a product. Feel free to post the product, along with your link.

I don't feel our rules should hinder members from helping each other. Even though I know they have in the past. There's a difference between just self premonition, and offering help from personal experience with the product.

If anyone has a problem with this send me pm.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-03-2017, 10:11 PM
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Looking great for 10 months. I'd stop whistling him so much and let him explore and gain confidence finding birds. Let him be independent.

Also probably a good idea to not shoot birds for him until he is a bit steadier as this is a huge reward. I'd be keeping him on a check chord til he is steady through the flush at the very least and get him used to watching the bird take flight without bouncing on it. Great start
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-03-2017, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone.

Ken, I'll email or call on information. I'm not looking to break rules.

I did get him out on wild pheasant today. He jumped two of them, without getting them shot over him. It was nothing official, we were just out playing in the field next to the house. I know there were at least 2 other roosters in the field that we didn't go after. To be honest, I'm trying to keep him out of the fields and on the 2.5 acres of lawns until the hens are done nesting. He has plenty of song birds to keep him chasing for hours there. For better or for worse we have a lot of pheasant in the fields around the house.....though, they are un-huntable (I am not sure that is a real word) because we live in a wildlife management area.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 11:28 AM
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I dislike whistles immensely. But that's a personal thing. I may start carrying one though in field trials just to call back my scout.

Anyways, your boy sure looked happy and loving birds. That's half the battle. But yes, I agree with Ken in that he will absolutely have to stand off his birds or this will become an issue. For being so young, I can understand shooting a bird for him in that situation, but as he grows and expectations increase, like organic, I wouldnt recommend shooting birds for him in that situation either. Some good advice here in this thread!
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